A soft grinding wheel is used for hard materials because its bond releases dull grains, creating a self-sharpening effect that prevents heat damage and glazing.
Is your mounted grinding wheel wearing out too fast? This is often caused by excessive pressure, incorrect speed, or a mismatch between the wheel and material.
For sharpening drills made of HSS, use a 60-80 grit aluminum oxide wheel. For cobalt or carbide, use a diamond wheel. Grind a 118° point angle on the wheel face.
Fix grinding wheel loading with practical strategies. Use a softer grade, coarser grit wheel, optimize speeds, and apply coolant correctly to prevent clogging.
Dress a grinding wheel by using a dressing tool to clean and true its surface. Brace the tool on the tool rest and move it smoothly across the spinning wheel to remove glazing and restore a flat, sharp cutting face.
No, you should never grind on the side of a standard grinding wheel. It’s not designed for side pressure and can shatter, causing serious injury. Use the right wheel.
Avoid grinding soft metals like aluminum, wood, plastics, and rubber. These materials cannot be ground safely, as they clog the wheel, create fire risks, and release toxic fumes.
To change a grinding wheel, unplug the grinder and remove the guards. Loosen the arbor nut—remembering the left side is reverse-threaded—then swap the old wheel.
For heavy grinding on aluminum, use a silicon carbide grinding wheel to prevent clogging. For finishing and blending, a ceramic flap disc provides a cooler cut.
A grinding wheel is sharpened through a process called ‘dressing’. This involves using a dressing tool to remove clogged material and dull grit, which keeps the wheel sharpened for safer, more effective grinding.
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